There is a moment in every Greek meal that stops conversation. It is the moment the saganaki arrives. A small pan of golden, sizzling cheese, a squeeze of lemon, and someone shouts “Opa!” as the table erupts in approval.

Saganaki is named after the small two-handled frying pan it is cooked in, called a sagani. The dish itself is beautifully simple: a slab of cheese, lightly floured and pan-fried until golden on the outside and molten within. It takes about five minutes to make and it is one of the most popular meze dishes in Greece and in Greek restaurants worldwide.

Choosing the Cheese

This is the most important decision. Not every cheese works for saganaki. You need a cheese that has a high enough melting point to hold its shape in the pan while still becoming soft and gooey inside.

The traditional choices are:

Kefalograviera - This is the classic saganaki cheese. It is a hard, salty cheese made from sheep’s and goat’s milk. It fries beautifully, developing a crispy golden exterior while staying firm enough to slice.

Kefalotyri - Similar to kefalograviera, slightly sharper. Works perfectly.

Halloumi - Not traditionally Greek (it is Cypriot), but it is widely available in Australia and makes an excellent saganaki. It holds its shape exceptionally well and develops a gorgeous crust.

Graviera - A Greek cheese similar to gruyere. The Cretan version works particularly well for frying.

In Australia, halloumi is by far the easiest to find. Every supermarket stocks it. For kefalograviera or kefalotyri, head to a Greek deli or specialty cheese shop.

The Method

1. Cut the cheese into slabs about 1cm thick and roughly the size of your palm.
2. Briefly dip each slab in cold water, then dredge in plain flour, shaking off the excess. The water helps the flour stick and creates a better crust.
3. Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. You want enough oil to come about halfway up the side of the cheese.
4. When the oil is hot (test with a tiny piece of cheese, it should sizzle immediately), lay the cheese slabs in the pan.
5. Fry for about 2 minutes per side until deeply golden.
6. Remove to a plate, squeeze lemon juice over the top immediately, and serve.

The lemon juice is not optional. It cuts through the richness of the fried cheese and the acidity balances the salt. Some people add a crack of black pepper. I sometimes scatter a pinch of dried oregano on top as well.

Common Mistakes

Pan not hot enough. If the oil is not hot, the flour will absorb oil and you will end up with greasy, pale cheese instead of crispy, golden cheese. Get the pan hot first.

Cheese too thin. If you cut it too thin, it will melt completely and you will have a puddle of cheese in your pan. Keep it at least 1cm thick.

Overcrowding the pan. Fry in batches if needed. Each piece needs space and contact with the hot pan.

Skipping the flour. The flour coating is essential for the crust. Without it, you are just melting cheese in oil.

Variations

While the classic fried cheese is the most common saganaki, the term also refers to any dish cooked in that small two-handled pan. Some excellent variations include:

Shrimp saganaki (garides saganaki) - Prawns cooked in a tomato sauce with feta, baked until bubbling. This is outstanding.

Mussel saganaki - Mussels in tomato sauce with cheese, a favourite in Thessaloniki.

Pepper saganaki - Roasted peppers with feta and tomato in the pan.

Serving

Saganaki must be eaten immediately. The moment it leaves the pan, it starts to firm up. Within a few minutes, you have gone from molten deliciousness to a rubbery slab. This is a dish you cook and bring straight to the table.

Serve it with bread to mop up any melted cheese and lemon juice left on the plate. It pairs wonderfully with a cold beer or a glass of Assyrtiko wine.

At a meze table, saganaki is always one of the first things to disappear. Make more than you think you need. I have never seen leftovers.

Kali orexi.