For years, Greek wine had a reputation problem. People associated it with retsina, the pine-resin-flavoured wine that was either a beloved tradition or an acquired taste depending on who you asked. The international wine world largely ignored Greece in favour of France, Italy, and the New World.

That has changed dramatically. Greece is now recognised as one of the most exciting wine-producing countries in the world, with indigenous grape varieties that you simply cannot find anywhere else. And because Greek wine evolved alongside Greek food over thousands of years, the pairings are natural and intuitive in a way that no sommelier’s spreadsheet can replicate.

The Key Greek Varieties

Assyrtiko - This white grape from Santorini is the star of Greek wine. It produces wines with bright acidity, mineral character, and flavours of citrus and stone fruit. It is the most versatile Greek white for food pairing.

Moschofilero - A aromatic white from the Peloponnese with floral notes and crisp acidity. Think of it as Greece’s answer to a dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer.

Malagousia - A nearly-extinct variety that was rescued in the 1970s. It produces rich, aromatic whites with tropical fruit notes.

Xinomavro - The great red grape of northern Greece. It produces structured, tannic wines often compared to Nebbiolo. Needs time to open up.

Agiorgitiko - The most widely planted red grape in Greece. It produces soft, fruit-forward wines from the Nemea region. Think of it as a friendlier, more approachable red than Xinomavro.

Pairing With Meze

The beauty of meze is that you are eating many small dishes, which means your wine needs to be versatile. Here are my recommended pairings for a typical meze spread.

Cold Dips and Bread

Tzatziki, taramasalata, melitzanosalata, hummus, and bread.

Drink: Assyrtiko or Moschofilero. The acidity in both wines cuts through the richness of the dips. The mineral character of Assyrtiko is particularly good with taramasalata.

Fried Dishes

Saganaki, fried zucchini, keftedes (meatballs), fried calamari.

Drink: A chilled Assyrtiko or a light Rosé from Xinomavro grapes. The acidity refreshes your palate between bites of crispy, oily food. This is the same reason champagne works with fried food.

Grilled Seafood

Octopus, prawns, whole fish, calamari.

Drink: Assyrtiko is the obvious choice and it is perfect. The minerality of Santorini Assyrtiko with grilled octopus is one of the great food and wine combinations. If you want something different, try a Vidiano from Crete.

Grilled Meats

Lamb chops, souvlaki, pork belly, chicken.

Drink: Xinomavro for lamb. The tannin structure and acidity stand up to the richness of grilled lamb beautifully. For pork and chicken, Agiorgitiko is a lovely match, soft and fruity without overwhelming the meat.

Cheese

Feta, kefalograviera, graviera, kasseri.

Drink: Moschofilero with feta is a wonderful pairing. The floral aromatics complement the tang of the cheese. For harder cheeses, a young Xinomavro works well.

Vegetable Dishes

Horiatiki, briam (roasted vegetables), gigantes (giant beans), gemista (stuffed tomatoes).

Drink: Malagousia with roasted vegetables is surprisingly good. Its richness matches the sweetness of roasted capsicum and tomato. For lighter vegetable dishes, Moschofilero.

Finding Greek Wine in Australia

Greek wine availability in Australia has improved enormously in the last decade. Specialist wine shops in Sydney, Melbourne, and other cities now carry a decent range. Online retailers have expanded the options further. Some restaurants are also building impressive Greek wine lists.

I have been impressed by how some Australian food businesses are using technology to better source and stock specialty imports like Greek wines. One firm we talked to, which consults on business technology, mentioned that wine importers are using data to predict demand for niche varieties, making it easier for shops to justify stocking Greek labels.

Expect to pay between $25 and $45 for a good bottle of Greek wine in Australia. The sweet spot for quality is around $30 to $35. At that price, you can get outstanding Assyrtiko or Agiorgitiko that will convert anyone who has not yet discovered Greek wine.

My Simple Rule

When in doubt, open an Assyrtiko. It is the most food-friendly wine in the Greek repertoire and it works with almost everything on a meze table. Keep it very cold, and pour generously.

Stin iyia mas. To our health.