Ouzo is perhaps the most misunderstood spirit in Australia. Most people’s experience with it involves a shot at a Greek restaurant, an involuntary grimace at the anise flavour, and a decision to stick with beer. This is a shame, because ouzo, when drunk properly and with the right food, is one of the most civilised and enjoyable drinking experiences you can have.

The problem is not the ouzo. The problem is how we drink it.

How Greeks Actually Drink Ouzo

In Greece, nobody does ouzo shots. The idea would be met with bewilderment. Ouzo is sipped slowly, always with food, always with water, and usually in the afternoon or early evening at an ouzeri, a type of taverna that specialises in ouzo and meze.

Here is the proper method:

Pour a measure of ouzo into a small glass. Add cold water, roughly equal parts. The clear spirit turns milky white, a phenomenon called louching caused by the anise oils reacting with the water. Add an ice cube or two. Sip.

The dilution is essential. Neat ouzo is too concentrated and the anise flavour overwhelms everything else. Diluted with water, it becomes gentle, aromatic, and refreshing. The anise settles into the background, and you begin to taste the other botanicals: fennel, coriander, cardamom, depending on the brand.

The Meze Connection

Ouzo is never drunk without food. This is a cultural rule as deeply ingrained as any religious commandment. The food served alongside ouzo is called mezedes, and the pairing has been refined over centuries.

The best ouzo meze tends to be salty, briny, and bold in flavour. The anise in the ouzo acts as a palate cleanser between bites, refreshing your taste buds and preparing them for the next morsel.

Here are the classic ouzo meze combinations:

Grilled octopus - This is the quintessential ouzo pairing. The smoky, slightly chewy tentacles against the cool anise of the ouzo is extraordinary. Dress the octopus with olive oil and vinegar.

Fried whitebait (marides) - Tiny whole fish, lightly floured and fried until crispy. Squeeze lemon over them and eat them whole. With ouzo, this is perfection.

Feta and olives - The simplest possible meze. A slab of feta, a handful of Kalamata olives, and bread. The salt of the feta and the brine of the olives are natural complements to ouzo.

Taramasalata - The briny fish roe dip is an excellent ouzo companion. The smoky quality of the roe echoes the anise of the spirit.

Grilled sardines - Fresh sardines, simply grilled with salt and lemon. Oily, smoky, and perfect with diluted ouzo.

Pickled vegetables - Pickled octopus, pickled peppers, pickled onions. The acidity and brine work beautifully.

Fried calamari - Lightly battered and fried with a squeeze of lemon. Another classic pairing.

Choosing an Ouzo

Not all ouzos are created equal. Like any spirit, quality varies enormously.

Plomari from the island of Lesvos is widely regarded as the finest ouzo-producing region. Several excellent brands come from there.

Ouzo 12 and Metaxa Ouzo are the most commonly available brands in Australia. They are perfectly drinkable, if not the most complex.

For something more interesting, look for smaller-production ouzos at Greek specialty stores. They tend to have more nuanced botanical profiles and a smoother finish.

A good ouzo should taste clean and aromatic, not harsh or overly sweet. Some cheaper ouzos have added sugar, which gives them a cloying quality. The better ones rely on the natural sweetness of the anise and other botanicals.

The Ouzeri Experience

If you have ever been to an ouzeri in Greece, you know it is a special atmosphere. The pace is unhurried. Small plates arrive one at a time. Conversation flows. The ouzo glass is refilled. Hours pass without anyone checking a phone.

You can recreate this at home. On a warm Sydney afternoon, set a small table on the balcony or in the garden. Put out a bottle of ouzo, a jug of cold water, some ice, and a selection of simple meze. Invite a couple of friends. Do not rush.

This is the Greek concept of kefi, a state of joy and good spirit that comes from the combination of food, drink, company, and time. You cannot have kefi if you are in a hurry. You cannot have kefi with a shot glass and no food.

A Note on Quantity

Ouzo is typically around 40% alcohol, the same as vodka or gin. Because you are diluting it with water and sipping it slowly over several hours with food, it is surprisingly civilised. You will feel relaxed and happy, not drunk, which is entirely the point.

The Greek approach to ouzo is the opposite of binge drinking. It is social, moderate, accompanied by food, and spread over a long afternoon. It is, dare I say, a model for how we might all approach drinking.

Try it the Greek way. You might discover that ouzo is your new favourite spirit.

Stin iyia mas.