Every culture has its meatball. The Italians have polpette, the Swedes have kottbullar, the Turks have kofte. The Greek version is the keftedes, and I would put it up against any of them.

What sets Greek keftedes apart is the generous use of fresh herbs, the hint of spice, and the fact that they are fried rather than baked or simmered in sauce. The exterior is crispy and golden, the interior is tender and fragrant, and they are eaten at room temperature as often as hot. This makes them ideal meze food, perfect for a table full of small dishes.

My grandmother made keftedes every Sunday. She would stand at the stove, frying batch after batch in olive oil, and the kitchen would fill with the smell of mint and onion and sizzling meat. I would hover nearby, stealing them from the cooling rack when she was not looking. She always pretended not to notice.

The Meat

Use a combination of beef and pork mince for the best flavour and texture. A 50/50 blend is traditional. The pork adds fat and moisture, while the beef provides structure. All-beef keftedes tend to be drier and denser.

If you prefer lamb, a lamb and pork blend works beautifully too, with a more distinctly Greek flavour.

The Recipe

Ingredients (makes about 30 meatballs):

• 500g beef mince
• 250g pork mince
• 1 large brown onion, grated
• 3 cloves garlic, finely grated
• A large handful of fresh mint, finely chopped
• A large handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 2 slices white bread, soaked in water and squeezed dry
• 1 egg
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Plain flour for dusting
• Olive oil for frying

Method:

In a large bowl, combine the beef and pork mince with the grated onion, garlic, mint, parsley, oregano, cumin, squeezed bread, egg, and generous seasoning. Mix thoroughly with your hands until everything is well incorporated.

The mixture will be quite soft. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, which firms it up and makes it easier to shape. This resting period also allows the flavours to develop.

With wet hands (this prevents sticking), shape the mixture into balls about the size of a walnut. Some people make them round, others flatten them into small patties. I prefer a slightly flattened shape because it creates more surface area for crisping.

Roll each keftedes lightly in plain flour, shaking off the excess.

Heat about 1cm of olive oil in a large, heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the keftedes in batches, being careful not to overcrowd the pan. Fry for about 3 to 4 minutes on each side until deeply golden and cooked through.

Drain on paper towels and serve.

Key Tips

Grate the onion, do not dice it. Grated onion distributes more evenly through the mixture and releases more moisture, which keeps the keftedes tender.

Soak the bread. This is a classic Greek technique. The wet bread adds moisture and creates a softer texture. It also helps bind the mixture without making it dense.

Do not overwork the mixture. Mix until just combined. If you knead it like bread dough, the meatballs will be tough.

Fry in olive oil. This is non-negotiable. The olive oil adds flavour that vegetable or canola oil simply cannot replicate. It is more expensive, yes, but this is where it matters.

Variations

Tomato keftedes (domatokeftedes) - A Santorini specialty. These are made with grated fresh tomato, onion, and herbs, bound with flour, without any meat at all. They are exceptional and perfect for vegetarians.

Fish keftedes (psarokeftedes) - Made with flaked cooked fish, often cod or another white fish, mixed with potato, herbs, and lemon. Light and delicate.

Chickpea keftedes (revithokeftedes) - Mashed chickpeas formed into fritters. A popular vegan option.

Serving

Arrange the keftedes on a platter and serve with lemon wedges and tzatziki on the side. They are wonderful as part of a meze spread, alongside dips, salads, and bread.

Keftedes are also excellent in a pita wrap with tomato, onion, and tzatziki for a quick meal.

They keep well in the fridge for a couple of days and reheat nicely in a moderate oven. You can also freeze the uncooked mixture, shaped into balls, and fry them from frozen, adding a minute or two to the cooking time.

A plate of golden, herb-fragrant keftedes on the table is a guarantee that everyone will be happy. They are the kind of food that brings people together, one crispy, minty bite at a time.

Kali orexi.