Feta is one of those ingredients that people think they know, but when you start looking at the options available in an Australian deli or cheese shop, it becomes clear that the word “feta” covers an enormous range of products with vastly different qualities.

Not all feta is created equal. The crumbly, tangy, sheep’s milk feta from Greece is a completely different product from the smooth, mild, cow’s milk cheese that many Australian supermarkets label as “feta.” Understanding the differences will transform your cooking.

What Is Real Feta?

In 2002, the European Union granted Greece a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for feta cheese. Under EU law, only cheese made in certain regions of Greece, from sheep’s milk or a blend of sheep’s and goat’s milk (up to 30% goat), using traditional methods, can be called “feta.”

This ruling recognised what Greeks have always known: feta is not just any white cheese in brine. It is a specific product with a specific character, shaped by the breeds of sheep, the pastures they graze on, and centuries of cheesemaking tradition.

Outside the EU, the PDO protection does not always apply, which is why you will find Australian, Danish, and Bulgarian cheeses labelled as “feta” in our shops. These can range from perfectly good to disappointing, and knowing what you are buying matters.

The Types You Will Find in Australia

Greek PDO feta - The real deal. Made from sheep’s milk (or sheep/goat blend) in Greece. It is firm enough to slice into a slab, with a crumbly texture that breaks into uneven pieces. The flavour is tangy, salty, and complex. This is what you want for a horiatiki salad and for eating on its own with olive oil.

Danish feta - Made from cow’s milk, this is the smooth, creamy white cheese that many Australians are most familiar with. It is mild, spreadable, and has a much softer texture than Greek feta. It works well in salads and cooking but tastes quite different from the Greek version.

Australian feta - Several Australian cheesemakers produce excellent feta. The best ones use sheep’s milk or goat’s milk and employ traditional brining methods. Some producers in Victoria and Tasmania are making fetas that rival Greek imports. Cow’s milk versions are also available and tend to be milder.

Bulgarian feta - Similar in style to Greek feta but with its own character. Often made from sheep’s milk with a slightly more acidic flavour profile.

Marinated feta - Cubes of feta stored in olive oil with herbs, garlic, and peppercorns. These are lovely for antipasto platters but are not suitable for cooking or for a traditional Greek salad.

Which Feta for Which Dish?

Horiatiki (Greek salad): Greek PDO feta, always. You want a thick slab that holds its shape on top of the salad and has the tang and salt to stand up to the tomatoes and olive oil.

Spanakopita and other pies: Greek feta is ideal, crumbled into the filling. Its sharpness balances the richness of the pastry and the earthiness of the spinach. Australian sheep’s milk feta also works well.

Saganaki-style baked dishes (like prawn saganaki): Greek or Australian feta. You want it to soften and become creamy without completely melting.

Pasta and grain salads: Danish feta is actually a good choice here. Its creaminess and mild flavour work well tossed through warm pasta or grains.

Topping for roasted vegetables: Any good feta works. Crumble it over roasted beetroot, pumpkin, or eggplant.

Eating on its own (with olive oil, oregano, and bread): Greek PDO feta. There is no substitute for this application. The quality of the cheese is front and centre.

Storage

Feta should be stored submerged in its brine in a sealed container in the fridge. If you have bought a piece that did not come with brine, make your own by dissolving 1 teaspoon of salt in 1 cup of water. This keeps the feta moist and prevents it from drying out or absorbing other fridge odours.

Stored properly, feta keeps well for several weeks. If it develops a slimy surface or off smell, discard it.

Price and Value

Greek PDO feta is more expensive than domestic alternatives, typically $40 to $60 per kilogram compared to $20 to $30 for Australian cow’s milk versions. Is it worth the premium? For dishes where feta is the star, absolutely. For cooking where the cheese is one of many ingredients, a good Australian sheep’s milk feta offers excellent value.

My approach is to keep two types on hand: a Greek PDO feta for salads and simple eating, and an Australian feta for cooking and baking. This way you get the best of both worlds without spending unnecessarily.

Where to Buy

Greek delis in Sydney, Melbourne, and Adelaide carry a range of Greek fetas, often cut from large wheels or blocks and sold by weight. This is the best way to buy it because you can taste before you commit and the turnover is usually high, meaning fresher product.

Cheese shops and farmers markets are good sources for Australian artisan fetas. The stallholders can tell you about the milk source, the ageing process, and the best uses for each cheese.

Feta is not a generic ingredient. Treat it with the respect it deserves, choose the right type for the right dish, and it will repay you with flavour.

Kali orexi.