There is a dish that appears on every taverna table in Greece, alongside the grilled meats, the salads, and the dips. It is never the star of the meal. It is never the dish people photograph for social media. But it is invariably the first thing to be finished, the platter scraped clean while other dishes still have food left.

Greek lemon potatoes. Patates fournou. Roasted in olive oil and lemon juice until golden and crispy on the outside, creamy and tangy on the inside. They are the single most addictive side dish in Greek cooking, and they are absurdly easy to make.

Why They Work

The genius of Greek lemon potatoes is the cooking liquid. Instead of simply roasting potatoes in oil (which produces good results but nothing revelatory), the potatoes are cooked in a bath of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and stock or water. As they roast, they absorb the liquid, and as the liquid evaporates, the potatoes crisp up on the exterior while remaining almost creamy within.

The result is a potato that tastes of lemon and oregano from the inside out, not just on the surface. Every bite is flavourful, tangy, and herby.

The Recipe

Ingredients:

• 1.5kg potatoes (Desiree or another waxy-floury variety)
• 150ml extra virgin olive oil
• Juice of 3 lemons
• 4 cloves garlic, roughly smashed
• 2 tablespoons dried oregano
• 500ml chicken stock or water
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

Preheat your oven to 200 degrees Celsius.

Peel the potatoes and cut them into large wedges. I cut each potato into about 6 to 8 pieces, depending on size. You want them chunky. Thin, small pieces will dry out.

Place the potato wedges in a large roasting tin in a single layer. They should have a bit of space between them. If they are too crowded, they will steam rather than roast.

In a jug, combine the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, stock, and a generous amount of salt and pepper. Pour this mixture over the potatoes and toss to coat evenly.

Roast for about 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes. Every 20 minutes or so, give them a stir, turning the pieces so they brown evenly. Add a splash more water if the pan looks dry before the potatoes are done.

The potatoes are ready when they are golden and crispy on the edges, tender all the way through, and most of the liquid has been absorbed or evaporated. The bottom of the roasting tin should have a sticky, caramelised residue that is intensely flavourful.

The Details That Matter

The potatoes. You want a variety that holds its shape but also has enough starch to become creamy. Desiree is ideal. Kipfler works well too, cut lengthwise. Avoid very waxy potatoes like Nicola, which stay too firm, and very floury ones like Sebago, which can fall apart.

The olive oil quantity. It seems like a lot. It is a lot. This is not a dish for moderation. The olive oil is what gives the potatoes their richness and their golden exterior. Use a good olive oil because you will taste it.

The lemon juice. Fresh lemons only. The acidity is essential and bottled lemon juice tastes different. Three lemons might seem excessive, but the sharpness mellows significantly during roasting.

The stock. Chicken stock adds an extra layer of savoury depth. If you want to keep it vegetarian, use vegetable stock or plain water. The potatoes are still delicious without the stock, just slightly less complex.

The modern restaurant industry has been finding all sorts of ways to optimise operations while keeping food quality high. I was reading about how specialists in this space are helping hospitality venues manage everything from menu costing to supply chains. It is reassuring to know that even as technology advances, the fundamentals of good cooking remain unchanged. Potatoes, lemon, olive oil, and heat. No algorithm can improve on that formula.

Variations

Add tomato. Some recipes include a couple of chopped tomatoes or a tablespoon of tomato paste in the roasting liquid. This adds sweetness and colour.

Add capsicum. Chunks of red or green capsicum roasted alongside the potatoes add another dimension.

Finish with herbs. A scatter of fresh chopped parsley or dill after roasting adds brightness.

Make them spicy. A pinch of chilli flakes in the roasting liquid gives a pleasant heat that works surprisingly well with the lemon.

Serving

These potatoes belong alongside anything grilled: lamb chops, chicken, pork, fish, or even just halloumi. They are also excellent as part of a meze spread, served at room temperature.

Leftovers (if there are any) can be reheated in a hot oven for about 10 minutes. They lose some of their crispness but gain a concentrated flavour that is almost better than fresh.

I have served these potatoes to hundreds of people over the years, and the reaction is always the same. First, surprise that something so simple can taste so good. Then, a second helping. Then, a request for the recipe.

Now you have it. Use it well.

Kali orexi.